I've been hard at work creating Up-Cycled garments for my 'rack' in a local vendor boutique, focusing lately on Red-White-Blue. With these spectacular white jeans sporting be-jeweled back pockets, and a Slinky blue/metallic stripe knit from my 'Blue Stash Bin', I knew I could create a cute skirt. A scarf tossed my way from a friend pulls it all together with red accents.
Read along to learn some techniques for both the heavy denim using heavy thread to clone the original topstitching, and fine finishing techniques for finishing the edges of the long sash 'belt' from a square scarf.
TO CHANGE PANTS INTO A SKIRT
Cut off the legs - but ALWAYS cut off less (leave more on the top), to just be careful, my motto is: ALWAYS leave as it is easier to cut off more than to add it back on!
Rip the inseams so that they are totally apart.
Rip the crotch seams at front and back as far up as possible to allow for the overlapping seam to be pressed in a straight line. Finish the under seam side as desired (I serged).
Using a TOPSTITCH Needle (I used a 90/14) and a heavy thread - I used Coats n' Clark Button & Carpet Thread. Find colors I have at CLOSE-OUT Pricing at this link: https://www.londas-sewing.com/product-page/button-craft-thread-similar-to-that-used-in-alabama-chanin-work TEST to set similar stitch length using the cut off legs for testing.
To professionally 'end' the new topstitching, leave long threads where the stitching joins the original stitching. Then, thread that upper thread on a needle, and 'bury' the thread rather than cutting it off. With the bobbin thread, do the same. I never tie a knot and cut close, as that is bound to come loose eventually.
To add a red hemline, I utilized EXTRA WOOLY NYLON in the upper looper of my serger.
For a wide stitch, use the LEFT needle of a 3 needle set-up (Left needle, upper looper, and lower looper.). TEST on the same fabric to get the correct tension on all threads. Generally, Wooly Nylon has tension of its own, so a lower setting will likely be necessary.
I adjusted for a close stitch length, and balanced tension to create a strong, solid red hemline, as you can see in the closeup below.
HEMMING THE SCARF 'BELT'
The scarf I was given was square. I had to cut it in half, and narrow each half to create a scarf long enough. Doing so created a long edge that needed to be hemmed. The original scarf hem was a VERY narrow stitched hem.
A lightweight fabric like this requires a sharp, skinny needle. My choice: Microtex Sharp Size 70/10.
I first considered to re-hem all ages using heirloom the 'Roll & Whip' technique. With the excess fabric, I had plenty of fabric with which to test.  I've found a huge stack of my Heirloom Sewing Guide  that I'm including with EVERY ORDER. In my Guide, you'll read that you use a presser foot with grooves on the bottom, shorten the stitch length of a wide zigzag stitch. It's quite amazing how Roll & Whip works. Give it a try!
Ultimatley, I decided not to use a Roll & Whip edge finish.
Narrow Hem Foot
Honestly, I couldn't find ANY of my narrow hem feet, and finally realized that all the different width finish narrow hem feet I thought I had were for my Pfaff 7550 - now 'dead' and serving as a lamp in my Sunroom Sewing Studiio. At any rate, I have a great video explaining how these work - and with the scarf being straight grain edges, this would likely have been a great solution.
My Choice: A Narrow Hem
This is the technique I decided upon for the lightweight scarf fabric. I use this technique SO often. The 'key' is creating a 'taut' fabric upon which to work, Needle down function ON, and working a small length at a time.
I do wish I had had more of the striped Slinky Knit to have created a more full circle, flippy skirt. That not being the case, I chose to create a straight rectangle, pleating in the fullness at the center back and center front. Had there been enough to 'gather', I'd have done that, but I only had about 9" more circumference than the bottom of the jeans skirt, which would have looked quite skimpy. Thus... the pleats.
Have fun with scarves and pants - transforming them into skirts of all lengths! I have several more projects 'on the table'. Keep posted for more Blog Posts on my creative sewing escapades.
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