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  • Writer's pictureLonda

Ponte Knit Vogue Jacket Sewing – Part II

To catch up, read Part I of the Ponte Knit Vogue Jacket Sewing HERE.


BEFORE starting to construct a garment, STABILIZING edges is VITALLY IMPORTANT!  Boring…but important.

For this garment, the back neck of each of the upper back pieces, and the front angled edges of each upper front NEED stay-stitching.  Stay-stitching is stitching through a single layer of fabric, a tad inside the seam line – WITHOUT stretching the fabric as you are doing the stitching.  After stitching, compare to the pattern.  If it stretched during stitching, then pull the upper thread and distribute the fullness until it is the same size as the pattern along that edge.

To do this stitching, I use needle position, moving my needle a tad to the right. Then…I guide the edge of the fabric right at the 5/8″ mark on my throat place, and the stay-stitching is then exactly where it needs to be.  I always chain-stitch when possible, going from one piece to another without clipping threads in between.


Selvage Used as ‘Piping’ in Horizontal Seams

possible couching

In the first installment of this project, I hinted at my thought of using the ‘hairy’ selvage inserted like a ‘piping’ into the horizontal seams of this jacket. To give this a try, I cut 1″ strips of the selvage. As you can see in the photo at right below, you can see I placed the selvage at the lower edge of the top pieces and stitched, but not AS close as I would ultimately want it to be.  To do this, I again utilized the needle position on my machine ( a Pfaff 7550 that off