Flippy Fold Down Knit Ruffle Skirt

How's that for a description?  I 'knocked off' a pattern for this popular little skirt with a teen student of mine, and you'll find below, the 'pattern' instructions.  If you have any questions, don't hesitate to call or email me.  I'm here for you! 

Warning:  Not for wide-hips, heavy legs, etc.  Sew for the young gals in your life - get them  sewing and saving.  These take just 1 yard.  All of my cotton/Lycra blends are Purrrfect for this little skirt: 

 Fabric:  Cotton/Lycra Blends – preshrink before cutting

1 yard will make a skirt that is approximately 15” long, with the top folded down.  Length can be adjusted by the amount of the Top that is turned down while wearing.   

Cut:

Top: This is one large piece that will fold in half so that there is a fold at the bottom edge of the band that folds down. 

 Example:  for Hip 37”

1 piece 25” deep x 35” wide

So – cut your Top piece 2” less than your hip measurement.   

            Ruffle Bottom:  10” deep x full width of fabric (usually 56-60” wide)

Sew:  Top and Ruffle Preparation

1.      Stitch top into a tube.  (Also stitch Ruffle into a tube now too so that you can use your Twin Needle all at once.)  Serge or trim seam close.  Press to one side.  This seam will be located at the left side of the skirt. 

2.      Mark and press in center front and center back and other side of the Top for ‘keying’ up later with the ruffle. 

3.      Fold top in half and press. 

4.      Right side up at machine, using a 4.0/75 Stretch Twin Needle or cover hem on a serger or cover hem machine, stitch ½” or so from the fold. 

5.      Hem the ruffle now too. (since you are ready to do the Twin Needle Stitching – or cover hem on your cover hem machine or serger with that capability),  I recommend fusing a strip of BIAS HTC Fusible tape to the hem allowance.  Just lay it at the edge on the wrong side and fuse.  Do not stretch it.  Now, press up that hem allowance and stitch about 3/8” from the fold.  Trim the excess on the wrong side off close using an Applique Scissors and caution. 

6.      Letting fabric lay as it wants to – pin remaining edge together – being sure NOT to force these edges together.  The under layer will be shorter than the top layer – pin as it is, as this is a manifestation of the “turn of the cloth”. 

7.      Baste this edge together allowing for a ½” seam allowance from the shortest edge.

8.      Trim so that the seam allowance is even. 

Sew:  Ruffle

1.          Press Ruffle in half, serving to divide into a  center back (the seam) and a center front (the pressed fold).

2.          Set Gathering Stitches using a longer than normal stitch length.  Set 2 rows, one row at 5/8” from the edge, and another at 3/8” from the edge.  Do NOT stitch entirely around the edge, but rather break the stitching at the center back and the center front.  When you start the stitching, backstitch a bit to secure – then when you pull up the top threads, you have something to ‘pull up against’. 

3.          Pin to the Top, matching fold to center front of Top, and matching the seam to the center back of the Top.    Adjust gathering to match, and distribute evenly. 

4.          Stitch with a regular length stitch, stitching between the rows of gathering stitches.  Release and take off innermost gathering row of stitches that will be seen on the ruffle. 

5.          Serge to finish … carefully! 

 Smile – you’re done!