Londa's Knit Neckline & Hem Techniques

using

Clear Elastic, Stretch Fusible Tape and Twin Stretch Needles

 

Necklines

         Along the way, I've experimented and refined this technique that gives me a perfect 'store-bought neckline finish look' that skips those yucky 'made-at-home' facings AND the oft-given 'just turn it under and stitch' instructions.  Read on.....grab a scrap of knit yardage, some (new) clear elastic (I like 1/2 to 5/8" wide), and give it a try...

Needed:

Clear Elastic   (buy in at least 10 yard hunks - you're gonna love it!)

Wide Zig Zag at your sewing machine

Twin Stretch Needle (4.0/75)

2 spools Polyester thread (knit stretches, so you need your thread to stretch as well!)

Fusible Knit Stretch Tape - best 'deal' going...comes in Neutral

Directions:

1. On WRONG side, lay clear elastic just a bit from the cut edge and zig zag* on with a big, wide zig zag - I usually use about 3.0 long and 3.5 to 4.0 wide.  *BUT - as you stitch it, you are going to put ever so slight of a little tug on the elastic with your right hand, right in front of the needle as you go.   This is what takes a little practice - getting just the right amount of tug - not too much, not too little.  It is a slight tug!

2. Serge around neckline if desired - I don't always do this, as knits don't ravel anyway...but if I do, I serge with the wrong side up at the serger, just skimming a tad off the edge - with differential feed at 1.5.  With the non construction of the clear elastic, if you knick the elastic, you haven't killed it!

3. Optional Step:  (Though one as a beginner with this technique, you might want to do).  Carefully, at ironing board, use Steam A Seam 2 Strips or even Wonder Tape (self-sticky) to turn this edge to the inside of your garment evenly.

4. Thread up with your 2 spools of polyester thread with the 4.0/75 Twin Stretch Needle. (I think 2 spools give a more consistent feed, rather than 1 spool and 1 bobbin - but maybe that's just on my machine...experiment for yourself.  I even use the exact same spool catcher - both of my spools set horizontally).  I use just the same thread in my bobbin, though I know many use Wooly Nylon - experiment for yourself. 

5. Stitch with the Twin Stretch needle, with the right side of your presser foot along the fold of the neckline - and using a tad longer stitch than normal - I usually use 3.5 long. 

6. D0N'T JUDGE YET!!!!    You MUST now go and gently steam press (not iron) this neckline!  Doing so will make it look GREAT! 

Hems

    I find it very important to make sure I've stitched the side seams so that the lower edge is plenty snug around my hips - because I KNOW that the operation of stitching the hem is going to stretch the fabric some - regardless of what I do!  Be careful though on sleeve hems - you need to be able to get your hand through!

1. Establish hem allowance and gently press up into place.  At fold, clip into seams so that you can press the seam allowance of the hem in the opposite direction that you've pressed the seam allowance on the garment - thus 'balancing' the bulk'.  (This assumes serged together, not pressed open, seam allowances at the vertical garment seams.) 

2. Using Stretch Fusible Tape  and NOT stretching it as you work, fuse to the inside of the hem - approximately at the depth where you will be stitching.

3. Thread up with your Twin Stretch Needle (as above) and stitch equidistant from the folded edge - obviously with right side up at the machine.  I always pull out and put on that Quilt Guide from my accessory box - but a piece of tape, post not, whatever you have - to place on the bed of your machine for a guide along which to guide the folded edge of your garment as you stitch - will help you stitch not and straight.  (Though a creative hem might be to gently wave...)

4. Using Applique duck-bill scissors, then carefully  trim any excess hem allowance from above your stitching line on the garments' inside. 

5. As before, gently STEAM before judging your results!

An alternative method is to use the technique I learned in Sewing Workshop Patterns:

Serge the tape (or a strip of fusible interfacing) to the inside of the hem allowance, fuse side up - then fuse hem up and do the twin needle or top stitching. 

 

Again - KEY to success is making sure the top is a bit tight to begin with - as this stitching WILL make it grow a tad.   

 

??? Give me a call - 217-298-9853 or 217-398-5166 - as I'm usually home designing, sewing, filling orders, etc.!    Londa