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Londa's Creative Threads
804 Vista Dr.  Savoy, IL 61874
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April 28, 2008
Show Specials........for YOU!    
Finally!  I'm back home to stay for about 6 weeks.  Yea!!!!!!!  Shows are lots of fun, but my OWN bed felt VERY good last night!!!  The Paducah Quilt Show was my first trip there - and what an absolutely charming town!  I'm taking my antique and shopper extraordinaire hubby there with me for a weekend this summer!  It was such fun to see so many women having a blast sharing their common love of sewing/quilting. 
Now... I'll spend this week 'digging out' - which means unpacking everything carefully, trying to get organized, catching up on orders, ordering more good stuff..........AND petting my Very, very lonely cats!  Can't wait to see that #1 grandson of mine either - he's now 3.  If it'd just quit raining around here, we would get to go o more 'hammer' now - which means watching the men at construction sites.....  But, Spring is definitely bustin' out all over.  We have asparagus coming up like crazy!!!
 
Very quickly this afternoon - here are some Show Specials I'm extending to you - but please note:  ONLY through this Wednesday, April 30, 2008.    
 A special note to my new customers from the Puyallup Sewing Expo, and Chicago Quilt Festivals ... You've been added to my mailing list, but your 25% off coupon special will be coming to you later this month...so watch for it!    
  • Sweatshirt Sale!   I have special orders to fill, and need some new ones for my own new creating as I have some new designs in my soul just waiting to 'get out'!    My Show price is $24.95 - so I've applied percentage discounts to get them to about that for this sale.  Authentic Pigment are $24.91, and Comfort Color (Made in U.S.A) are $25.06  I would expect to ship Special Orders some time the week of May 5.  Select from the In STOCK and ON SALE department if you need them quickly - as that means I have them NOW in stock.  
Regularly $2 each - but 20% off through Wednesday.  

 I had fun layering 2 shaped buttons together on this variation of my Genesis Pattern... and 'closing' it with a ponytail elastic band tacked to the wrong side of the jacket's right side. 
 


My 'Show Stopper' Jacket has been this version of Genesis, featuring more of the great Rizado Italian Trim (I currently have black, pink/green, purple/cream, green/cream, black/red/green, and this coral/green colorways in stock.  Find them here.)  I wrote out directions, and added pictures at the end of the webpage for my Genesis pattern.  If you already own Genesis - be sure to visit the webpage anew for this recent addition.  Genesis is a great 'beginner' pattern for my jackets created from sweatshirts . Find the Rizado Italian Trim currently ALL at this link:  http://www.wearableartsweatshirtpatterns.com/page/1226752 .  Remember when you place orders at more than one of my sites during a day, I WILL Catch it, an combine your orders, sending along a shipping rebate.   
Finally, some sad news to share.  The charity cause I have supported with your help - the Israeli Sewing Cottage - is closing.  Dr. Deborah reports that the unrest in Israel around the cottage is keeping women from coming to the classes to learn to sew.  Plus, she and her husband are returning to the U.S. later this year.  Hence, she doesn't feel comfortable accepting our assistance any longer.  While identifying a worthy cause to support here in my own community would certainly be easy, I feel led to ask for your suggestions.  Some time this year, I will have the sewing machine we sent to Dr. Deborah Christmas '06 to donate.  Immediately, I have funds to start off a new charity cause in a wonderful way - as the tithe of my pattern sales is amounting to a healthy sum.    Sew...........if you are aware of any sewing-related causes that you feel would be appropriate for Londa's Creative Threads and customers to join together in supporting, please send me the details and some contact information.   Please, also pray for Dr. Deborah as she winds up her galiant efforts, and that she will find other ways to share her talents.  
 
  • And... Some Miscellaneous things...
1.  Postal Rates are due to increase the Monday after Mother's Day...and that is a sad thing.   I did not raise my shipping rates at the last increase, but find I may have to do that this time around, unless I do what I'm considering in just eliminating the Shipping Confirmation portion - meaning I would NOT have a tracking number for you.  That would just mean that I would not have verification that it was delivered.  Unlike UPS, with USPS, tracking doesn't really track a package at all until it is delivered.  I would welcome your input.  If I decide to do that, I could hold my prices, I think.  USPS is in my back yard almost - and UPS is across town - and I've had some BAD experiences there - so USPS is my delivery of choice........
2.  My main supplier for notions, etc. has joined with another well-known company, so while some of my items will have to be discontinued, MANY others will be added!!!  This is great timing for me as I tackle the humongous job this summer of bringning all my products back under 'one roof'.  Thanks in advance for your understanding if something you order might not be available any longer.   

Sewing hugs,





 
NEWS from Londa's....
Fabric Blowout Sale  - Puyallup Report - New:  Kits for Sweatshirt Jacket -
French Lick Skirt - Yo Yo Fashions 
 
  • Fabric Blow-Out SALE
The Kit endeavor, along with many other factors, has led to my decision (for the near future) to clear out all current fabric yardage.  My business already spills out of the basement, and just having enough room around here has become a problem.    Sew.......... for the time being, I'm BLOWING OUT the few (though GREAT) fabrics on hand Yardages indicated are pretty accurate - but jump on these FAST to be sure to get what you need!   Please note:  My system doesn't automatically decrease yardage seen as available for PayPal orders, but I always fill orders based upn time they are RECEIVED in my system.   Prices listed below are per yard - unless otherwise noted.
    1. Black Chico Knit  - $10.95  - now: $5,48             17.5 yards available
    2. Black Chico Knit Stripe - $10.85 - now: $5.48     8.5 yards available
    3. Black Silk Doupionni - $18.95 - now:  $6.63         6 yards available
    4. Black Wool 'crepe' Jersey - $11.95 - now:$4.78           14 yards available - this fabric FELTS BEAUTIFULLY  - order twice as much as you need... see description.
    5. Black Double Knit - great poly/rayon/lycra blend - $9.50 - now:  $4.28               24 yards available - SUPER body for ALL separates!!! 
    6. Grey Double Knit - as above    $9.50 - now: $4.28          15 yards available
    7. Navy Double Knit - as above  $9.50 - now: $4.28          a 4.5 yd piece 
    8. Lime Cotton/Lycra Jersey Knit - $$7.95 - now: $15.19 for 4.5 yard piece - 1  available
    9. Floral Tapestry - $29.95 - now: $11.98                         9 yards available - GREAT for jackets, purses, totes...
    10. Oscar De La Renta Tweed in coral, cream, black - $38.95 - now: $15.58                 7 yards available.  Great for a jacket, or to trim a sweatshirt! 
    11. Wine Tencel Gabardine - $7.95 - now:  $3.98    4 yards available  
    12. Mustard Wool Gabardine - 4.625 yard piece of 62" wide - regularly $101.52 - now:  $25.38        1 piece available

     

     
  • Puyallup Report
    Here in Central Ill Spring is trying to peek her head ... without much success yet, I fear.   I SEW enjoyed the weather reprieve with my travel to the Puyallup Sewing & Stitchery Expo in Puyallup, WA!   My gracious hostess, Karen, even had iris shooting above ground 6" or so.  I'd never been to the Northwest before - and it was a true delight.  The BIG evergreens, HILLS, and Mount Rainier - WOW!!!!  It was even fun to fly again.  Sitting next to me on the plane was a wonderful man currently serving our country - and what would you guess - in your wildest imagination - that he did in Iraq?  Mended uniforms!!!!!!!!!  Yep - and without even zig zag on the sewing machines (?) provided.  It was amazing to hear his stories of the challenges in even just keeping our soldiers attired.  That task of mending uniforms has been arranged now for in other ways, or I'd be calling on you to help me provide them with suitable notions, etc!  That encounter was truly a 'God-arranged' one for me - what a fun and eye-opening flight it was...

    Puyallup (I know how to both spell AND say it now) - it is Pew-ah-lup - is different from the other shows I've attended as a vendor/teacher in that it is  conceived and managed by Washington State University rather than an individual or company.  The entire show was wonderful... starting with my wonderful hostess.  Karen so graciously provided not only a bed, but wonderful food (with help from hubby Michael), a place to which to ship my stock ahead of time, and a guide for shopping for booth needs beforehand - etc.  She even found me 2 helpers in her friends, Diane and Kathy.  Yet another customer, (another) Kathy - volunteered to work in my booth, so we had a real blast working all together.   In all my attention to getting the stop OUT there, I neglected to get details on getting UPS to pick it up - what a nightmare.  Karen and her hubby took care of everything - THANK YOU!!!  

 This was the first show I flew to rather than driving - so it was all a learning curve for me.  The Puyallup show is a very, very  nice blend of garment sewing, quilting, home dec, and other fiber-related booths.   The show is big - but not overly so.  Unlike, say the Houston or Chicago Quilt Festivals, it is not so big that you can't thoroughly see and 'dig' into each booth.  The facility is another big PLUS.  Such a fairgrounds and great buildings and food choices, I've never, ever seen!  Combine all that with wonderful people, enthused about the same things you are - and you have a recipe for success.  If you can make it - GO!   I certainly hope to return...  

For some pictures - including Karen's spectacular hand-painted machine case that I spyed in her sewing area - check out my Blog:  
http://www.londascreativesewingchatter.blogspot.com

  •  
  • New...KITS for my Sweatshirt Jackets

                                            

With much, much convincing on the part of many sewing friends and customers, I have finally yielded and started to create and offer KITS for my Creative Sweatshirt Jackets.  I took quite a few to the Puyallup Show - and they were very well received.  I say I am creating 'cousins', but not twins - in that NO kit will have an exact duplicate - therefore, they are still 'One-of-Kind'.  Combine that with the originality and creativity that the purchaser will bring to the jacket, I feel I'm staying true to my 'mission' of original clothing that celebrates the original wearer.    My kits include fabric, pattern, trims, button, thread, interfacing if needed, etc.... everything EXCEPT the sweatshirt (order separately to get your proper size), and perhaps the monofilament thread (that I feel most have anyway).  In addition, I vicariously get to 'create' each jacket, because I also actually sketch a jacket - taking off from the pattern the goodies seem to 'fit' with that is included, showing where I would place the fabrics and trims that I've included in that kit.  I take a photo of both my sketch and the kit itself for my records, so that if you need any assistance, opinions, etc... I can 'picture' accurately what you are working with.   The other exciting thing about this endeavor (especially for my husband and my house) is the 'dives' I make into my own 'STASH' for fabric and goodies.   

For kits 'exactly like that sample' for which I was repeatedly asked... I did quite a bit of fabric shopping at the show.  I bought enough of many great fabrics for a sample, and for about 3 or so kits using the same fabric.... 

 

For now, if you're interested in a kit, give me a call (217-398-9853) or an email me with colors you're interested in.  The fact is - days are just too short right now, and too much 'on my plate' for me to take the time to scan and upload these one-of-a-kind kits..  Watch for them up online at www.makeasweatshirtjacket.com after the spring blitz of shows is over -  early May.   

 
  • French Lick Skirt 

This draft to-fit-you pattern of mine has amazed me with its sales.  Thoroughly tested as I taught it repeatedly at my shop - it is a great 4 gore skirt drafted easily using your measurements.  It is reversible, and takes just 2 times your finished length plus 1/4 yard of fabric for each 'skirt'.    My booth at Puyallup was across from Vogue Fabrics - sew...of course, I succumbed to temptation - several times!    Among the many pieces I 'adopted' - many were for my sweatshirt jacket kits, but I spied these 2 amazing silk chiffons that just said, "I wanna be a French Lick Skirt"!!!  One is for ME - what an excuse I have in that I just must have another 'sample' for this pattern.....  BUT, these 2 silks were such a dynamic combination, that I purchased enough for 2 more skirts.  Find these Kits HERE at www.londas-sewing.com.  The kits contain the pattern, fabrics (2.25 yards each) plus elastic and a black fabric for the elastic 'sleeve'.  Add black thread and you're ready to stitch away.....   
                                                                                       

As you shop for YOUR fabrics for a "French Lick Skirt", the key is to look for fabrics with a high contrast in value (light and dark), and even 2 totally different scales of prints.  The photos above show those 'keys' really well.   Especially a strong 'light' will shadow through in amazing ways to the opposite side.   

 

  • Yo-Yos continue to be popular - thanks to the Clover Quick Yo-Yo Maker templates.   I continue to sell those things like crazy.  What is being done with them is getting better and better.  I spied this new Indygo Junction book at the show - which has an elegant purse made of silk yo-yo's on the front.  I must say, it is the best 'yo yo book' I've seen thus far, and am happy to offer it HERE.  The funky, retro things that youngsters and the 20 somethings are doing these days - hook right into this yo yo craze.  Sew - as you're plotting ways to get those in your life hooked on sewing, consider this book and yo yos!  

 

 Book on SALE through Friday, March 14! 
 
 
I'm on a mission this week to complete my newest pattern, Transformed, so I'll have it for the next show:  the Original Sewing & Craft Expo in Cleveland at the end of March.  It  will feature my concepts for 'transforming' the sweatshirt bottom bands into great collars, and my yellow jacket as seen in the current March issue of Sew Savvy magazine will be one of the jackets.  Keep tuned to my Blog for progress.  Sew.........I'm off to stitch up the last jacket for that pattern today and tomorrow.  I'll send out a quick email as soon as it is available - hopefully by March 22. 
 
Happy Sewing!  

January 2008

 
Greetings - from Londa's Creative Land...translated as a VERY  messy basement!
 
I've come up 'for a breath' from my long, hard - yet deliciously fun days of creating new jackets - starting with a sweatshirt - for FOUR New patterns!  I'm SEW grateful to have a job that is this much FUN!  If I could wave a magic want and have everyone emjoy their work like I do, it would be a wonderful thing.  I wish that for you.   If that's not the case for you, I just hope that what I have to offer in my newsletters, products, and websites can help you enjoy your leisure hobby of sewing even more.  

Here is a snapshot of me hard at work at my laptop typing in the last step that I just stitched on one of my new patterns... I create, stitch, type, create, stitch, type....
 
Anyway - I jotted down some things I wanted to share/remind you of as I work.  I hope these might help you in your own creative ventures.
 
My machine thanks me every time I do change its needle and yours will too.  Also - if I've sewn heavy all day, I give my hook area a good oiling at the end of the day.     
  • Cold weather usually  means heavier fabrics.  Heavier fabrics require more thread for each stitch, to go through all the layers, so be SURE you increase your stitch length to accommodate the heavier fabrics.  For example:  I would sew on cotton with a 2.5 stitch length.  For the seams on my sweatshirts as I take them in to not be so bulky:  I increase my stitch length to 3.0.

 

  • Ahhhhhhhhh - I LOVE that automatic needle threader on my machine.  If your machine has one (and many do), teach yourself to use it - or go back to your dealer and have them teach you!!!  When I had my dealership I would teach new owners to be sure to thread the machine with the presser foot UP (so the tension discs are open and the thread gets back between the discs and gets squeezed), BUT, then when going to use the needle threader, to put the presser foot DOWN.  That puts tension on the needle thread (cause it is squeezed by the tension discs), and the needle threader works better.  All the ones I had on machines we sold at my store worked by the principle of a hook coming from the back to the front of the needle.  One needed to lay the thread underneath yet in front of the needle, so that the hook could pull the thread through and to the back - a loop, which then the finger could grab easily.  

 

  • I use LOTS of monofilament thread in all my embellishment work.  I find, in order for it to be invisible - since I have kept the same 100% poly thread in the bobbin, I need to LOWER (go to a lower number) the needle thread tension so that the bobbin thread doesn't peek up to the top - especially for zig zagging - which I do all the time as I couch down yarns.   I carry both the YLI nylon monofilament (Wonder Invisible Thread) and 100% polyester - the Mono-Poly Thread.  I still haven't decided if I have a preference - so I guess I really don't.       I use smoke colored thread for dark colors, clear for light colors...

 

  • Thread Tweezers  - well, my nails are down to stubs right now with all this work and the cold weather.  so - I grab my thread tweezers more and more.  The Clover ones are GREAT!  And...I also have one in my make-up drawer to get stray eyebrow hairs - it grabs them GOOD! Click  HERE to find my favorites!  

 

  • Fancy Threads can be devils - especially when trying to thread them through Serger Loopers.  My favorite threader is this REAL long one from Clover - and I keep it right in sight, IN THE PACKAGE (or else it will get lost), righ with my threads.  Here's a snapshot:    They are Clover Number: 8810 - 2 for just $5..00. 
  • Another little gem I've come to depend on is the Clover Desk Needle Threader.  I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE that gizmo!  click HERE .  or Cut and paste this into your browser:
  • http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Store_id=398&page_id=23&Item_ID=4522

Without a needle threader (or if it is hiding from  you), this method works well too.  Just take a regular strand of thread and make a loop.  Stick the 'hard to thread' thread into it, then guide the 2 matched ends of the regular strand of thread through the eye of the looper - and the 'devil' thread has to come along.  Here's a picture of that at my serger.    
I finally came up with a great decorative lettuce edge for my Pastel - Pathways jacket.  Here is a snapshot of my testing and final result...
  The cut off sleeve bands proved worth their weight in gold for testing! 
 
Here's someone NOT to invite if you're battling your serger............................  
And, since that's not a very good picture of my Sasha, she wanted me to show you how good she looks in pink....  With her, though are my other most often-used tools. 

I LOVE my Dritz Blue Rotary Cutter.  The DRITZ is really a KAI - and that is really right on the blade, package, and the cutter.  TOP, top, top quality.  The other thing I love about this one is that it works by pressure.  So - I just push down and the blade is exposed and works.  When I'm not using it, it is safe.  In the fast pace and mess I work in best, that is important to me.  Click 
here to find my favorite Dritz/Kai cutter.  OR - here's a link to copy and paste into your browser: 
http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Store_id=398&page_id=23&Item_ID=5767
Here I am using it to cut off the 2nd side of a V-neckline on one of my jackets.  I tried the sweatshirt on once I'd split it down the front, decided the angle of the front neckline, pressed, then cut on the pressline on one side.  Then....took that piece, flipped it over on top of the remaining side, and used it as a template to cut the other side exactly as the first.  Use this 'template' idea when taking in side seams, etc....
 
 
 
Also by Sasha are my Chakoner and the Kai 5220 scissors.  I have several Chakoners around at all times - so one is usually buried close to where I need it!   AND, I love my green-handled Kai 5220 scissors - it whacks through the sweatshirting just GREAT!!!  
 
I need to clear out the overstock of Books I have right now, so many are on sale.  Here's a list of just a few...but there are a total of 48 books marked down significantly.  Winter is great reading and stitching time - though I thought this would be a good Sale Item.  
  1. Pants For Real People, and Jackets for Real People -  - 30% off. 
  2. Needle PUnch Easy and Fun - 40% off
  3. Opening & Closing - 25% off
  4. Sewing Fun for Kids - 40% off
  5. The Complete Serger Handbook - 40% off
  6. Basic Guide to dying and Painting on Fabric - 40% off 
You get the idea - They are found either at www.londas-sewing.com   or www.londasartsysewingstuff.com  under Books. 
My new patterns are titled:  Pathways (angled front), Refined (completely cutting the sweatshirt apart, and including a 'standard' pattern  for each brand to cut a more fitted armscye and sleeve cap - eliminating all that underarm yucky bulk),  Unity (combining a completely different lower portion to the sweatshirt top), and Fruitful. ( lots of different embellishment ideas).   Here's a glimpse at some of the new jackets - in various states of completion.   
  
 
I'm even having great fun utilizing selvages of the hand-dyed wool groupings I'll soon be adding to stock.  See me at work with them here in the photos of "Blue Heather - Pathways".  
 
     
 
I'm trying to post every other day or so at my BLOG  - my current 'progress' in the pattern development.    http://www.londascreativesewingchatter.blogspot.com
 
My newest website is up and live... http://www.makeasweatshirtjacket.com .  I'm open to any feedback.
 
Thanks to all of you who wrote volunteering to give opinions, test patterns, etc.  I WILL be getting back to you - SOON! 
 
Send me pictures of what you're all sewing.  I'd love to share them on my Blog.   If you're searching for certain sewing things and think I might be helpful to you, let me know. 

Have a sewing group that wants to buy in bulk?  I give great bulk discounts.  Most of the items at my Clover website offer discounts for quantity as well....
http://www.londasclovernotions.com
Whoops - almost forgot to share that the March Sew Savvy magazine (due out Jan. 29) will include an article by little ole' me - instructions for an entire jacket!  Here's a sneek peek of that jacket I did for that piece.  I haven't even seen the article yet - so each day I go to the mailbox hoping, hoping it has arrived. 



AND, I'm thrilled to have Nancy's Notions selling my books in her catalog.  I joke with my family that I really should be saving multiple copies of all this stuff to wallpaper my room  when I'm an old lady in a nursing home some day.  Anyway - it's sure fun to be able to share with other sewers in these ways for this time of my life. 

    

Back to  the basement I go.....Once the patterns are ready, you'll be the first to know and - as always - I'll have a great Introductory Offer for you.  
 
Creatively,
 
 
November 11

 
Just  back from Houston ..... and, believe me,  this newsletter would NOT be going out if I hadn't pretty much written the  'guts' of it BEFORE I left! Believe me...Houston is  LONG way from central Illinois.  Give me my sewing machine any time to drive over a rented cargo van WITHOUT cruise control or CD player!!! I've just added emails from all my new 'Houston' friends - so welcome to my chatty, yet informative newsletters!  

You'll find  in this newsletter:
*** Puyllaup & Paducah News
*** My 2 NEW patterns for Creative Sweatshirt Jackets
*** My 'Londas 2 Cents Worth' Review on Christine Jonson #1219 Bell Sleeve Wrap and A-Line Skirt and link to MORE at my Blog
*** FREE 'Genesis' Pattern for joining Fashion Club by Nov. 12
*** Fabric Links and NEWS 
*** Entertaining Houston Report

To put it mildly, this was an eventful trip.  Chatty Kathy that I am I'm sharing all the fun details - but at the end of this newsletter, so you get to the 'meat'  first.  Sew...if you'e interested in the saga - you can read it at the end.   
Do me a favor though - and forget all the 'bad' parts when you consider applying to help me at a future show.  I KNOW I will be making offers for help at 2008 shows, as my hubby just can't get away from work enough to help me at all of them.  I even got invited to have a booth and teach at the infamous Puyallup, WA show late February/early March!    I'll also be at Paducah Quilt Show - vending and teaching!!!    My calendar for next year is filling fast - but I also am most interested in traveling to teach at guilds, shops, etc.  So - if you're interested, please contact me asap.  
 
Here are pictures of my 2 newest patterns - published just in time for the Houston show!  
              
As with my first pattern, they are available both printed, and PDF delivery via email! 
My step-by-step directions, linked to lots of BIG pictures on webpages for each jacket make the process EZ! Click HERE to go right to the department with these patterns I continue to tithe 10% of all sales of my line of patterns to the Israeli Sewing Network.   :FYI  Genesis is 'pulled' from the Ultimate DVD - so if you have the Ultimate, you wouldn't want Genesis, UNLESS you are just one who works better with specific, step-by step directions.  Celebration pattern includes more views than you see on the front, and though it IS in the Ultimate DVD at the end, I definitely improved, refined ALL directions for this step-by-step pattern. 

OF COURSE, as I was preparing for the show, I decided I needed some new basics to wear.  After all, a girl can only wear the same black pants and top how often  It just works for me to wear basic black at the shows.  That way, I can keep changing and modeling my Creative Sweatshirt Jackets! 
The rayon/poly/lycra double knits I currently have in stock in BLACK, NAVY, and CHARCOAL grey are SO GREAT!!!  They have been 'calling to me', and  I decided I needed a long black skirt, so the black doubleknit got 'elected'!  I selected the
Christine Jonson #1219 A-Line Skirt (there's also a great reversible top in 2 views in this pattern).  I stitched the skirt AND a little top I got out of the excess fabric up in a quick 2 hours!!!  I've just written my Londa's 2 Cents Worth on this skirt.   Find the complete document (including current pattern suggestions for a great little top to squeeze out little top) at:
http://www.londas-sewing.com/2centscj1219
 

Below is an excerpt from this onda's 2 Cents Worth.
  This is an example of one of the main benefits of membership in my Londa's Fashion Club.  Members get 4 to 6 of these FREE each year.  FYI:  Recently, I also treated them with a FREE copy of my pattern, WORTHY! 

Join my Fashion Club today!  BONUS:  FREE 'GENESIS' pattern for anyone joining for a full year by Monday, November 12, 2007!  
 
Click on this link to join!
http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_dept_items.asp?Store_id=398&Page_id=17&categ_id=119&parent_ids=0,19
 


Here's that excerpt:

Though Christine says to ‘serge’ to seam, I just don’t do well by stitching that way in most cases.  I need a FEW pins to hold things together properly, and that is not very smart to do at a serger.  Rather, I stitch at the machine and then use my serger as the ‘microwave’ in my sewing room, to finish off the edges.  Do what you are comfortable with. 

When stitching knits of any type, I usually use a zig zag stitch set at .5 (that is ½) wide and 3 in length.  I use a Stretch Needle – so on this fine rayon jersey, I used the size 75 needle.  I also use a 100% polyester thread – like Metrosene.  

Steps 24 and 25.  I would first mark the wrong side of the fabric pieces somehow, just to insure that I keep continuity here.  Often times on a knit, you can’t tell the wrong side from the right side once you get going… 

Also - stitch from wide, hem edge to narrow top edge – especially if you are sewing a woven.  Give a little taut tug as you stitch for a nice seam.  

PRESS your seam flat first – SEAL the seam.  Then, press the seams towards the center front and center back.  If your fabric is bulky, you might even want to grade the seams.  

After stitching, I serge the seams together.  EXCEPTION:  on my additional center back seam, I serged the seam allowances independently and pressed them open, since I would be inserting a zipper.  I left about 2” extra ‘open’ on the seam for insertion of the invisible zipper.

 FIT THE SKIRT!!!!

This is easiest to do with the skirt inside out, and this works IF and only IF your sides are symmetrical.  If you are uneven, fit with the skirt right side out.  I just pinch and pin til I have the fit I desire.  For a knit, then be sure you can still get it down over your hips though!!!  The specific knit and it’s stretch qualities will determine this.  Since there is a turn down top elastic application, be sure you don’t angle out too drastically for the first 2” at the top though.  Remember this turn-down (even perhaps the 1” extra you allowed as I instructed above in the Cutting Directions) as you do your specific fitting.  Gently ease back out to the original seamline by the notch.  This will maintain the fullness of the skirt.

 Note:  You may want to topstitch the seams, but wait and do that later… 

HEM IT NEXT!!!!! 

This is our game plan: 

I suggest you hem it with the narrow topstitched 5/8” hem at this point.  THEN, fit the skirt in front of a mirror, shoes on, and with circle of elastic in hand.  Put the elastic on over top of the skirt, and pull it up or down at the top, until you have your hem falling evenly, and parallel to the floor.  It is great if you have a helper to measure the distance from the hem to the floor.  Mark the TOP of the elastic.  (I used my Chakoner).  That marking is where the fabric should fold down to encase the elastic.  If you have ‘ample’ fronts or backs, you will quickly see that it takes more length to go over your bumps.  Hence…the addition of 1” more at the top of the skirt, as I directed in the Cutting Directions. 

 For a great hem:

1.Clip into seam allowance – right up to seamline AT THE HEMLINE. (In this case, at the 5/8” line.)

2.Press the seam allowance in the HEM allowance the opposite direction.  This will ‘balance the bulk’

3.Fuse BIAS FUSIBLE TAPE to the hem allowance. Bias Fusible Tape: http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Store_id=398&page_id=23&Item_ID=2534 

4.Serge, Skimming off just a tad.

5.Press up the hem allowance.  You’ll see now how nice and non-bulky it is since you ‘balanced the bulk’. 

6.Thread up and stitch hem with a Twin Needle (I like the 4.0 width).  Make sure it is a STRETCH needle if you are on a knit.  OR do a cover hem on your serger or cover hem machine. 

 NOW – go back to our ‘Game Plan’ as described and follow the directions to define and mark the top fold of your skirt waist!

 

Step 27, 28, 29, 30 – Length of elastic …and application directions

First, Christine has you actually lap the elastic ½” to make the circle of elastic in Step 4.  I feel that gives a bulky lump, and rather prefer to BUTT the elastic ends together on a scrap of lightweight fabric (usually found in my waste basket), zig-zagging them securely.  Therefore, I would naturally subtract 1 additional inch from all the measurements given.

If one does a study on the length of elastic given proportionate to the waist measurement for each size, one quickly sees that a less proportion of elastic to body is given for larger sizes.  I AGREE with this – finding it to be very true, that the larger the body, the more you want elastic to STRETCH to accommodate it.   I imagine the other reason Christine  is directing for 3” – 10” less elastic than the waist measurement, is that in her technique, you are stitching through the elastic several times – first to serge it onto the edge, then to double needle stitch it to finish.  I have some refinements to her technique to offer, but just realize that whenever you stitch THROUGH elastic, that you are going to stretch it out additionally to some degree...................
 
On the black skirt, I used this great new Fantastic Elastic...where you buy it wide, and just cut it down to whatever width you want!  Worked GREAT!!!  And... I even have it in black!!! 
http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Store_id=398&page_id=23&Item_ID=5249
 
I also stitched up this same skirt from the Wine Tencel Woven fabric, and angled the hemline of each skirt piece to echo the angles in the hem of my Worthy Creative sweatshirt Jacket.  The  Wine Tencel is just $7.95 per yard and 64" wide! 
http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Store_id=398&page_id=23&Item_ID=5592
You can read all about how I did it, and see a picture of the unique hem variation I camd up with to 'echo' my Creative Sweatshirt "Worthy" Jacket - including adding an invisible zipper at the center back, with a tab closure inside...just go to my
BLOG:  

http://www.londascreativesewingchatter.blogspot.com

I KNEW I'd love this doubleknit fabric, so I cut off a hunk of both the navy and the charcoal for MY stash!  It is 59% poly, 24% rayon, and 17% lycra ... 54" wide, and just $9.50 per yard (regularly $16/yard).  Here is a scan of the GREY.  the navy is really a nice navy - holler if you need a sample.  Black is a good, dark black. 
 
  

Grey a nice heathered charcoal grey.  Click HERE, or cut and paste this into your brower for the Grey.
http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Store_id=398&page_id=23&Item_ID=5647

Click
Here for the Navy,  or cut and paste this into your browser.
http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Store_id=398&page_id=23&Item_ID=5646 

The 
Black Chico Slinky would make a great skirt - and with the Black Striped Slinky
in the top...WOW!  Add a pant (how about the new, fuller style?) in Slinky, and you'll be set for travel and the Holidays!
 
Black Chico Slinky:  http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Store_id=398&page_id=23&Item_ID=5648
Black Striped Slinky:  
http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Store_id=398&page_id=23&Item_ID=5649

A Quick Word about Fabrics at Londa's:  The sum and substance of it is that the competition for fabric online is vastly, vastly increased in the recent year.  I just don't have room for - nor am I close to good sources for -  GREAT fabric at wonderful prices.  My suppliers have dwindled as well.  So for the present time, I'm offering only the very, very BEST and BASIC fabrics at GREAT LOW pricing that I can find.  It won't be lots, but what I do have is GREAT quality and value!  There's just no time to search out, nor travel to NYC with my involvement with the sewing shows.  The shows and the success of my 'thing' with my sweatshirt jackets is taking all my extra time, AND, remember, I'm a Grandma!  My elderly folks need me as well (the only kid in town), so fabric hunting is on the back burner...for NOW.   Just wanted to 'clue you in'.  

After I get totally unpacked, I KNOW I will be putting some GREAT inventory on clearance ... like some Kai Scissos,  some fabric, patterns, etc., etc.  Shows are done, and it is time to scale back inventory for years' end...so watch for this clearance email coming soon.  I'll even have some pictures by then to include...

From my years in retail, I KNOW that women get totally involved with cooking Thanksgiving - as I get to this year myself...so watch for your next newsletter right AFTER Turkey Day!  

Read my "Houston Chronicle" at the end...if you're interested...

Sew thankful for arriving home safely, health, family, God and his Son, and also for you, my great customers...  

   
Sewing hugs,


to unsubscribe, just send me an email: 
londasews@insightbb.com with 'Unsubscribe LCT" in the subject line.   

***Almost an out of gas - somewhere in Arkansas...(My hubby usually watches the gas tank...  Did I ever tell you that I was blonde before I turned grey? Of course, along the way there were some map detours...guess I need a newer atlas than 2001..(so my sister tells me.) My customer/friend Bev and I chatted all the way and it went oh, so fast!
Mon. - found the George Brown Convention Center downtown - getting in much earlier than we ever dreamed, only to have a wreck with the van.  I did NOT see this car in my left blind spot!  Even the cop said it was an accident - but I got a ticket.  Thankfully, no one was hurt, my van only has a dent on the left side.  (YES, I always take the insurance on that with the rental van!)   Mind you, it was FULL of stuff at this point...  Except,   I felt (and still do feel) awful for the young woman whose right vans' front got smashed.  She was so calm and not mad.  I immediately asked if she knew the Lord, and we were both hugging several times before we parted way - which was quite a long time since the cop took an hour to write the ticket, as it was his first day back on the 'beat' afte 15  years on the desk.  So - though it was nerve-wracking, we were saying prayers of thanks that no one was hurt, and my van was barely dented.   Even a flat tire for me would have undoubtedly meant totally unloading the van........I don't want to think about it. 
*** Tues. - we join the othe vendors in the 'staging yard' for a 3 hour wait to get to the docks to unload.  What fun!!  Really...getting to chat with other people, and here comes this singing old time ice cream wagon.  Nostalgic...
With a little exta $ paid, I'm smart to have help getting us unloaded and everything into the booth.  I even got the foam floor laid down and fixtures placed!!!  All boxes were opened and placed in front of appropriate fixtures as Wednesday would be a marathon day setting up the booth, then selling from 5 to 10 pm - a marathon! 
*** Wed. - almost immediately upon starting work, I notice I'm missing the box FULL of the neat Crone Art embellishments.  Mind you, this is a box worth approx $3000!!!  Looked everywhere - never to find, so obviously it was stolen overnight in the 'secured' exhibit hall.  Desperate to replace the merchandise, prayer is answered and I am able to contact my suppliers just in time.  Even though she was leaving town for a vacation - the dear woman delays her departure 1/2 day to get a replacement box on its way to me overnight the next day!  That arrives on Friday.  Yipee!!!!  My dear sister, Laurie arrives that night - WOW - was I ever glad to see her!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
***Thurs. - booth full of people, I look up - and immediately realize one of my favorite jackets was GONE!  Another customer said quickly that someone had taken it down, saying they were going to try it on.  Nowhere to be seen - that jacket is obviously gracing someone's body.  It was one of my personal favorites - but also one I had worn and worn and worn this spring - so at least they didn't get a brand new jacket!  By this time, the police know me pretty well... 
***Fri. - day going well.  Find an Olive Garden to eat at after feeling pretty smug that I've mastered these Texas u-turns - which are against the law in Illinois.  With mouths watering for those breadsticks,  walking through the parking lot all the sudden, Bev is flying through the air in S - L - O- W motion towards the pavement.  BOOM!  She now is sporting an increasingly rich hued bruise on her left side and we are STILL amazed and praising God that she is in one piece, no broken hip, no blood was spilled............you get the idea.  Hey - supper was FREE! And the Olive Garden Manager was wonderful and will pay for fixing Bev's groovy glasses.  
***Sat. - I taught my 3 hour class in the morning, confident that my sister well knows how to take in money and Bev sells up a storm.  Perfectly fine, uneventful day -  but poor Bev is hurting.  As at the end of every day,  the sexy-voiced announcer proceeds to announce the daily winner of the Bernina 75th Anniversary Sewing machine (which Bev has daily entered, hoping to win...) and lo and behold...we hear "BEV" from Mahomet, Il is the WINNER!   Shocked beyond belief, she  never would have made it to the booth unless I'd been at her elbow reminding her to BREATHE!!!!  All the Bernina gals were tickled pink, cause Bev was the first one to actually come to claim the machine, as the other winners daily weren't present fo that fun.  So now when Bev's ribs holler, we just sing 'Bernina' to her and she smiles!!!   
***Sun.  LONG hours fom 11 - 5 -- though with change of time fom Daylight Savings Time, got an extra hour of sleep.  Start methodically packing up the booth, then find my empty boxes behind the storage curtain, and momentarily think I've found the box of Crone Art that was stolen.  Then later realize it was the box I had just packed - with some of the pieces on the top.  Now that I've totally unpacked the remaining inventory from the show - I KNOW it was stolen.  My temporary relief was just wishful thinking.  First load to the van - I knocked my head real good on the inside ceiling light in the van.  Ouch!