Professional Quality Interfacing
by Pamela Erny
Ahh...Interfacing, the bane of many sewists! We all have had disappointing experiences applying interfacing. Sometimes a bad result is the fault of an inferior interfacing, but often all we need to do is look into the mirror to catch the culprit of interfacing failure! If an interfacing isn't high quality it may shrink, pulling the fabric along with it causing ugly bubbles. Also, if the fabric is not pre-washed, the fabric itself can shrink, pulling the interfacing along for the ride, causing bubbles and wrinkles.
A combination of a good product and proper application will render professional results every time. You will find that Pro-Woven, Pro-Weft, Pro-Tricot. and Pro-Sheer interfacing is virtually foolproof. That is because they are manufactured to the exacting standards of professional quality.
"Pro-Woven Standard” is a sew-in interfacing and does not shrink at all. But If you really want to, you can pre-treat this interfacing in the usual manner: Soak in warm water, lift gently, and hang to dry. If you are using this interfacing for the first time and just want to be SURE it is not going to shrink, give it this ultimate test: cut a 10” square, soak it in hot water then toss it into a hot dryer. When dry, measure the square. It will be exactly the same. NOTE: Do Not do this with a FUSIBLE Interfacing! “Pro-Woven Standard” is a NON-fusible Interfacing, and is suitable for this kind of harsh testing.
To Use "Pro-Woven Standard", cut and apply as you would any regular interfacing.
"Pro-Woven Fusible” is also very stable. It's fusible resin is rolled on rather than sprayed, so it is smooth and not bumpy on the “glue” side. It does not shrink. Again, if you really want to, you may pre-treat in the usual manner: soak in warm water, lift gently, and hang to dry...but it is not necessary.
Since this is a professional-grade fusible there is a specific way it should be applied--
1.
Cut the “Pro-Woven Fusible” to the desired size and shape.
2. Place the “Glue Side” down onto the wrong side of the fabric. TIP: the
fusible (glue) side is "shiny".
3. Spray with water until the “Pro-Woven Fusible” is WET.
4. Let it rest for a few minutes to allow the water to activate the glue.
5. Cover with a damp press cloth.
6. Using Medium-High heat (wool setting), press using steam and heavy pressure
for 20 seconds before moving your iron to the next section. DO NOT slide the
Iron (see "Tip" below).
7. Turn over and repeat the same pressing (#5 and #6) from the right side of
your fabric piece, making sure you use a press cloth.
8. Let the interfaced fabric set until it is cool before stitching
"Pro-Weft" Interfacing is a feather weight, slightly sheer, softly brushed and very supple fusible interfacing especially suitable for tailoring and when you want soft shaping for shirt/blouse collars and cuffs. It is my favorite interfacing for silks such as dupioni. I also use this interfacing to completely underline tailored (and casually tailored) jackets and cardigans. "Pro-Weft" is also a perfect choice for mid to heavyweight shirting fabrics like denim and hemp. It stabilizes the fabric, providing wonderful body yet preserving the fabric's drape.
Apply Pro-Weft as directed above (the same way as Pro-Woven Fusible), BUT, spray lightly with water (it's NOT necessary to get it wet), and use a press cloth.
"Pro-Sheer ” is as light and supple as its name implies. It lends
a slightly crisp yet flexible hand to the fabric onto which it is applied. Using
this almost transparent sheer tricot interfacing is easy, but requires a
slightly different application than “Pro-Woven”, because “Pro-Sheer ” will
shrink a tiny amount. You may pretreat this interfacing in the usual manner, or
steam-shrink it during application (which is what I do) --
1. Cut the “Pro-Sheer Fusible” to the desired size and shape.
2. Place the “Glue Side” down onto the wrong side of the fabric. Tip: the
fusible (glue) side feels like "fine sandpaper".
3. Spray with water till wet.
4. With iron set on a “low wool” setting, hold it Just Above the interfacing and
lightly steam the “Pro-Sheer”. The interfacing will shrink slightly.
5. Cover with a damp press cloth.
6. Fuse the interfacing to the fabric using firm, even pressure.
7. Turn over and repeat the same pressing from the right side of your fabric
piece, making sure to use the press cloth.
8. Let the interfaced piece set until it is cool before stitching.
"Pro-Tricot” is a light weight tricot knit interfacing. Unlike some fusible tricot interfacings, “Pro-Tricot” doesn't interfere with the drape (“hand”) of the fabric to which it is applied. “Pro-Tricot” maintains the fluid drape of fabrics such as rayon, washed linen, t-shirt knits, and other soft fabrics. It is a good choice to use as interlining when tailoring jackets and suits. “Pro-Tricot” is applied the same way as “Pro-Sheer” (above).